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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.